A River Runs Through…What? – by Kim

I have always lived near a river, it seems. I was born close to the Main River in Frankfurt, Germany, then lived adjacent to the Danube in Belgrade, the Thames in London, the East River in Brooklyn and, finally, the Charles River in Boston. Imagine my great delight, then, in 1990 when I discovered that the city I was contemplating a move to had a mighty river of its own. A random stranger sitting at the bar of Mipjack’s* Fish Restaurant in Boston informed me, as I tended bar, that yes indeed, Los Angeles actually had a river running right through its middle – the eponymously-named Los Angeles River.
Wow, I thought, I wonder why I’ve never seen any photos of it? Why hasn’t it shown up in any movies I’ve watched? I must not have paid attention, I thought, and dismissed it from my mind. As the moving date got closer, though, I started contemplating where I’d live. I’d heard of Beverly Hills, Hollywood and beach communities like Venice, Santa Monica. They sounded like lots of fun, but really I preferred a riverfront district.
I love the sounds of a river. The mournful cry of a tugboat whistle at night. The caw of hungry seagulls fighting over food. The gentle lapping of the water against the shoreline. Even the insistent urging of coxswains, pressuring their teams to row ever faster. These are the sounds I’d grown up with and couldn’t wait to hear again, in my new city.
I arrived in Los Angeles on February 14, 1990, Valentine’s Day, and moved onto a friend’s houseboat in Marina Del Rey. In the middle of the night, the rain began to fall. Slowly, steadily, the heavy February rains hammered away at the roof. The sound of the ocean’s waves, the rocking motion of the boat and the patter of raindrops all conspired to lull me into a deep, unconscious sleep. The sound comforted me that night, and every night for the next couple of weeks.
When the rain finally let up, I knew it was time to find a home of my own – not at the beach, or in the city, but by the river. I set out on a quest to find the mysterious, almighty Los Angeles River. “Where’s the river,” I asked everyone I met, “I want to see it.” Some just shrugged. Some stared. A few even laughed. Finally, one kind soul took pity on me. “Remember the scene in ‘Grease’ where Leo and Danny race along a concrete channel?” “Yeah, when Sandy sits on the hill and sings Look at Me, I’m Sandra Dee?” “Yes, that’s the one. And that’s the L.A. River.”
What? How could a concrete road with a little stream trickling down its middle be a river? Where were the marshy banks, the mounds of natural vegetation…the wildlife even? Most important, where was the water?
Horrified, with my vision of a riverfront home disappearing quickly, I set out on March 2 to observe this travesty with my own eyes. Running as it does from the San Fernando Valley to Long Beach, I wasn’t quite sure where to go to see the L.A. River from the best vantage point. I was new in town and barely knew how to drive, so figuring out a good spot was difficult. Downtown intimidated me so I decided to try the Valley.
Consulting my newly acquired Thomas Bros. Guide, I headed over Laurel Canyon to a juncture just past Ventura Blvd., north of Moorpark. I parked on the overpass and looked down. There, snaking from east to west, was a big concrete ribbon, with about a foot and a half of brown murky water rushing through its carved-out center. Bits of trash floated along…a half a tire here, a jagged board there. There was no plant life, no wildlife, in fact not much life at all. It was sad, dark, depressing and unlike any river I’d ever seen. What on earth is this, I wondered, why does it look like this?
According to the history books, I found out the L.A. River was a run-off for the Santa Monica, Verdugo, Santa Susana and San Gabriel Mountains, collecting and channeling melting snow and rain water down into the Valley below. Never a rolling river, it just meandered along in a shallow bed lined with willows and reeds. When it did overflow there wasn’t much around, so the damage was minimal, but by the 1930s, development had placed a lot of structures nearby.
February of 1938 was the wettest February in 50 years. It rained continuously until, by March 2, the reservoir behind the Big Tujunga Dam was nearly full. Suddenly, the deadliest flood in Southern California history was underway. Rain falling on saturated mountains caused muddy water to rush down towards the Valley. Rising water washed out farms and ranches making Van Nuys a virtual island, reachable only by boat. Floodgates were opened on the bulging dam to save it, and a huge deluge descended, taking out nearly a dozen houses in Universal City. The storm finally eased up on the evening of March 3 after it had dropped a foot of rain and killed 96 people.
Almost immediately work began on the Hansen Dam, a structure that would redirect and collect the water from the mountains. And at the same time, the Army Corps of Engineers began the widening, deepening and paving of the LA River. It quickly became the concrete passageway we see today, picking up polluted water and toxic run-off as it passes through urban centers and dumping it into the sea.
Unwittingly, I’d gone in search of the long-gone tributary on the very eve of its destruction, 52 years later. The heavy February rains of 1990 led me back in time to the once-free river, now beaten into submission by a concrete mixer. It quickly became a metaphor for me, of what Los Angeles does to many who come here, longing to run wild. One little, bitty mistake, or monster flood, and you’re judged a nuisance and…
Alright there’s no real metaphor there. But the point of the story is that now I live just blocks from the L.A. River in what could be deemed a “river adjacent” property. There are no seagulls cawing, boat whistles blowing or coxswains yelling, but I know I’m still near a river (of sorts), and that provides just a little comfort for me late at night.
Photo Credit: Erik Gauger
